Thursday, April 19, 2012

Erraid New Routes

I had four days new routing on Erraid, Mull. We seem to have more or less run out of totally unclimbed crags but there are still plenty of gaps between the existing routes.

Colin Moody has some topos on his site.

There is also a free mini guide on the Rock + Run info site
Pete Whillance on a new E1 at Craig Mor
Oatcake Thin E3 5c at Craig Mor

Undeveloped bouldering crag at NM295204

Pete Whillance on a new E2 5b opposite Mink Walls

Scotland's 2nd Tuffa! The other one is on Goat Crag

Asphodel Wall
(NM 290 195)west facing
1- HVS
The clean pillar.
2 - Fang   16m   HVS 5a *
Start below a downward pointing spike. Climb up towards the spike then move left and climb up another spike. Pull right and finish up the crack above the downward pointing spike.
3 - E3 5c
Climb up to a deep slot. Use knobs above a flake to gain the upper groove.
4- E1
The obvious crack is more difficult than it looks.
5 - Twin Track 16m VS 4c *
Start up the next crack to the left which splits into two cracks and convergences again at the top.
6 - Green Cracks   16m   VS 4c *
Climb twin cracks just left of the arĂȘte at the right hand side of the face, this is left of a green corner.

Creag Mor (NM 295 199) South facing. Cynthia Grindley climbing.
1 - E3 5c
Climb over blocks and up to the small roof. Make difficult moves over the roof (small wires) and climb the wall above.
2 - Oatcake Thin 20m E3 5c
A boulder problem start leads to a thin flake. Arrange gear on the right then cross the steep wall above leftwards to good holds, (good micro nuts but blind to place). Climb direct to the top.
3- E1
Climb cracks to a right facing corner which is followed to a heather ledge. Climb a delicate ramp leftwards to finish.


I was looking for something different; nothing too frightening, well bolted routes with a good range of grades in a scenic location and, reasonably quiet. Too much to ask?

Sicily didn’t disappoint. It is a mid grade paradise with hundreds of perfectly bolted lines in a beautiful coastal setting.

Full article on the Rock + Run Info site.

Many thanks to Cog for the excellent photos. More on his site

Catwalk 6c+ (Coln Moody Photo)

No People No Stress 6c (Coln Moody Photo)

Red Necks 6b (Coln Moody Photo)

Il Ritorno dei Nomadi 6c+

Per I Nostri Amici 6b

Swordfish 7a (Colin Moody Photo)

The Riddle 7a (Colin Moody Photo)

White Wall 7a (Colin Moody Photo)