Monday, March 19, 2012

Am Fasgadh

Ian Taylor (off) Am Fasgadh
Teepee 6a+ (Ian Taylor photo)

I made it to Am Fasgadh at last. Not a moment too soon as it turned out. I don’t think I would have been able to get up anything until now; less running and more climbing meant my fingers were strong enough to climb at least one route clean.

I managed to lead the ‘Easier Warm Up’ 6c at Am Fasgadh and ‘Teepee’ 6a+ on Goat Crag. After that I was down to seconding harder stuff. Tess led Monsoon and Hydrotherapy (both 6c+), on Goat Crag. I followed both, but only just; very sustained climbing on small edges and flat slopers with slightly runout technical face climbing to finish.  The rock is excellent but low on friction and sweats up fast if you hang around too long, not that I was in a position to stop and relax at any point! From my recent experiences in Spain I’d say 6c+ was a bit harsh but I guess they might feel easier with a little more familiarity with the rock.

Ian and Tess led ‘Mac-talla’ 7a+ which looked utterly fantastic. To quote the guide ‘ One of the best routes of it grade in the country’ and to quote someone else ‘ the best 7a+ in Europe’.

Looking forward to another finger straining trip.

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